The Resurgence of Indie Sleaze
- UP MAGAZINE
- 2 days ago
- 5 min read
By Paige Auxier
Edited by Taylor Morgan
The indie sleaze aesthetic was popular from 2005 to 2012 and is typically described as a messy, maximalist, eclectic and uniquely individual breed of personal style that embodied the club and party lifestyle of the era. Indie sleaze fashion was characterized by American Apparel basics, ripped and colored tights, dirty sneakers, neon colors, rhinestones, smudged liner, glittery eye makeup, statement pieces, chunky jewelry, studs, sequins, fringes, scarves, tattered t-shirts, skinny jeans, fur coats, wedged sneakers and reflective fabrics.
Indie sleaze fashion was championed for its capacity to permit individual self-expression through wardrobe choice; however, this characteristic makes it especially hard to characterize or define in strict terms, as the embodiment of it differed heavily from person to person. It also derived influence from several other subcultures and eras of fashion. The hipster subculture, for example, had a present influence on indie sleaze, given that those who embodied it often purposely sported ugly items of clothing and made unconventional wardrobe choices as a way of displaying their individuality and deliberate rejection of the status quo, which were key characteristics of the hipster lifestyle. Indie sleaze was also reminiscent of twee, another popular subculture during this time period, which was characterized by pieces like ballet flats, babydoll dresses and vintage items adorned with frills and lace, as well as colored tights worn under skirts and shorts, all of which were dually associated with indie sleaze. Indie sleaze also happened to pull inspiration from previous eras of fashion. The wearing of bold and intricate patterns and prints, furs, loud colors, disco pants, microshorts and skater skirts reflected the fashion precedents of the 1970s and 80s. However, the aesthetic also embodied elements of the grunge and punk subcultures of the 1990s through tattered band tees, studs, ripped tights, plaid pieces, and DIY articles of clothing.
Given that this era is so heavily associated with the celebrity club scene, music and musicians played a key role in the development of the aesthetic. Popular music genres associated with indie sleaze were electro-pop and rock, dance-punk, indie rock and synth-pop. Artists who fit into said genres and gained popularity during the aesthetics prime were MGMT, MIA, The Arctic Monkeys, Sky Ferreira, Ke$ha, the Yeah Yeah Yeahs and LCD Soundsystem. The music created by these artists tended to center on the themes of embracing youth, living for the moment, partying, and rebelling against norms and authority for the sake of individualism, which were key values for those who embraced the indie sleaze lifestyle. Models were also influential in curating the indie sleaze aesthetic through the looks they donned on runways, in nightclubs or in paparazzi pictures shot of them in broad daylight. The most popular of said models were Alexa Chung, Cory Kennedy and Kate Moss. It’s also important to note the influence designer Hedi Slimane had on the indie sleaze look through the 14 collections he created for Dior Homme in the era spanning from 2001 to 2007. His collections included pieces made of leather and reflective fabrics, studs, band tees, flannels, bomber jackets, blazers, skinny jeans and ties. This style of menswear fashion, which came to be known as the “Hedi Slimane Boy,” was heavily influential in determining what constituted the indie sleaze appearance for men in particular.
Indie sleaze most notably gained popularity through the work of photographers like Mark Hunter, also known as “Cobrasnake,” who uniquely captured the celebrity party scene in the late 2000s and early 2010s with raw, flash, candid photography of household names sporting their bold personal style in nightclubs. It’s also typically theorized that the emergence of this aesthetic occurred as a response to the recession. Young people were increasingly dissatisfied with the day’s social climate and were seeking to live freely and for the moment by engaging in acts that allowed them to let loose and have fun. The recession also heavily influenced fashion choices, given that, as a result of the failed state of the economy, the majority of the population didn’t have the means to purchase expensive clothing, so name-brand fashion became somewhat out of vogue. And for the same reason, thrifting became a big trend in this era, as well as the act of creating DIY, budget-friendly pieces. Social media, which hit the scene during this era, also contributed to spreading the indie sleaze phenomenon. Said platforms provided individuals with new mediums to showcase their social lives alongside their tastes in art, music, and fashion, which allowed the aesthetic to be associated with both a certain appearance and an entire lifestyle.
In the discourse surrounding the topic of indie sleaze’s resurgence, several points of comparison between today’s society and that of the late 2000s have been cited. For example, many have noted that today’s rampant inflation is comparable to the 2008 economic recession, which coincided with the aesthetic’s prime. It’s also been argued that the present-day desire to return to a messier look and lifestyle is a reaction to the “clean girl” aesthetic; in the same way, the first surge of indie sleaze was a response to the “Mcbling” aesthetic of the early 2000s. Apart from these comparisons, though, the return of indie sleaze can be attributed to elements of today’s political, social and economic climates. Today, there is a general sense of social unrest and dissatisfaction amongst the youth population, given the heated and heavily polarized political environment, and as a result, some appear more driven to rebel against authority by engaging in erratic behavior. The pandemic has also been argued to have played a significant role in the return of the aesthetic, given that young people, after having been barred from going out and socializing with their peers for several years, now have a strong desire to resurrect the club and party culture of the era. In time, people have also begun to grow tired of the overwhelming extent to which social media has saturated our existences, and have, in turn, started to look back idealistically on past eras, yearning to return to times when people were able to live in the moment and express individuality without feeling intense pressure to adhere to a certain aesthetic. Social media has also placed greater pressure on individuals to assert their originality and indie sleaze fashion, given that it’s bold, unconventional, and inherently individualized is a look people can adhere to to appear more original. In terms of the role of pop culture, musicians like the Dare and Charli XCX are said to be influential in promoting the indie sleaze resurgence. Charli XCX, in particular, through her 2024 album “Brat,” is recognized for popularizing the messy, carefree and confident party girl attitude and lifestyle—all of which are key elements of indie sleaze.
In speaking on the subject of this aesthetic, it’s also important to note that not all elements of it were praiseworthy. Alongside indie sleaze’s popularity came the glamorization of substance abuse, mental health issues and eating disorders, all of which should not, but undoubtedly have been, re-popularized alongside the return of this look and lifestyle. However, noting this point is not an aim to discredit its virtues. If done correctly, I think that embracing and implementing elements of indie sleaze into one's wardrobe can serve as an avenue for them to engage in genuine self-expression with clothing. So go forth and get sleazy—in the best way possible—let loose for the night, wear a sequin top, slip into a pair of fishnets, blast synth pop, sport a leather jacket or smudge your liner, and discover for yourself how good it can feel to to experiment with personal style for the sake of self-discovery or perhaps just a good time.