70s Fashion: How Activism Inspired Wardrobe
- UP MAGAZINE
- 45 minutes ago
- 4 min read
By Paige Auxier
Edited by Taylor Morgan
Fashion is, like all other forms of art and expression, inherently political. A person’s clothes serve as an extension of their identity. Wardrobe choice is one of many tools individuals use to make statements about who they are to others as well as to influence the way they are perceived. However, there are natural limits to that expression, given that dressing in ways that veer away from what constitutes socially accepted attire requires someone to reject societal norms, which can be daunting and potentially dangerous depending on the circumstance.
Throughout history, groups with a shared identity have banded together in tough battles against the status quo to shift how they are perceived by broader society and redefine themselves on their own terms as individuals. And in said moments, fashion has been used as a tool to cultivate social change by such groups. Clothing also, however, tends to inadvertently act as a semiotic system that reflects social changes as they occur. When the role of an individual shifts within their society, their wardrobe tends to as well.
The 1970s were a decade characterized by activism and, in turn, perfectly demonstrate the principles mentioned above. The era encompassed second-wave feminism, a period during which feminists fought against discrimination for greater equality in the workplace, household, and society, as well as for reproductive rights. The Black Power Movement, through which black Americans sought to express pride in their identi
ties and promote their autonomy through direct action against the forces aiming to oppress them, also occurred during this period. And both of these movements had significant effects on society and on the wardrobe trends that dominated the decade.
Feminine attire that was in Vogue in the 1970s was in part inspired by female activism and influenced by the increasing number of women entering the workforce. During the decade, the female physique was put on display like never before. Women aimed to shamelessly flaunt their figures by wearing tight bell-bottom jeans and cropped halter tops during the day, and form-fitting sequin gowns and hot pants in the evenings. Garments made of knit and stretchy fabrics were also popularized for this purpose, as well as to provide comfort to newly working women.
Another popular garment was the wrap dress, which was praised for being comfortable, convenient, and versatile, given that it was deemed appropriate for professional and casual settings during the day, and could easily be dressed up for the evening. It was also championed for permitting sexual freedom, as it could easily be slipped on and off.
Androgynous fashion also grew to prominence during the decade, with actress Diane Keaton’s wardrobe in “Annie Hall” inspiring designers and the public. Women began adopting loose-fitting pantsuits and trousers into their wardrobes. Historically, such articles were only deemed appropriate for men outside of the home, so their becoming socially acceptable in formal and professional settings for women reflected the progress made by the feminist movement.
Menswear also endured changes during the 1970s. It became more acceptable for men to sport bolder patterns and colors, typically through polyester leisure suits, which were incredibly popular during the era. Men wore tight shirts and turtleneck sweaters, with fitted flare jeans, in an attempt to appear long and slender, which was the ideal male physique for the time period. It also became more acceptable for men to wear their hair long. Such changes showcased shifts in gender norms, similar to those occurring for women. Pop culture also provided men of the era with several gender-bending fashion icons to pull inspiration from. The most prominent being musicians like David Bowie and Mick Jagger. By sporting bright makeup, skin-tight jumpsuits, bold patterns, feathers and dresses, David Bowie championed the concept of expressing individuality and creativity through clothing, whilst pushing boundaries and inspiring fashion designers for decades to come. Mick Jagger was also influential in blurring the lines of gender distinction through his androgynous wardrobe, which consisted of eyeliner, flowing blouses, satin button-ups and form-fitting velvet jumpsuits.
Black fashion was also heavily influenced by activism throughout the 1970s. The Black Power Movement's emphasis on priding black identities led people to more readily display their culture through their wardrobe, like, for example, sporting natural hairstyles like afros. Black women, in particular, had several fashion icons to look up to during the 1970s. Pam Grier served as a symbol of black female confidence, strength and unapologetic sexuality, through both her persona and wardrobe, which consisted of tight-fitting high-waisted bell-bottoms, short halter tops, platform shoes and bold hoop earrings. Singer Diana Ross was also influential in her display of glamour through her luxurious wardrobe full of sequins, sparkles, feathers and fine fabrics, all characteristic of disco fashion. Her style choices redefined elegance and inspired other black women to make life their stage by proudly adopting glamorous and striking garments into their wardrobes.
The rise of the punk-fashion movement also occurred during the 1970s, which was prominent in both the United States and the United Kingdom; however, more so in the U.K. Designers Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren were the founders of the movement through their boutique, Seditionaries, in London. Punk fashion was a response to social unrest born from capitalism, recession and oppressive societal norms. People who sported punk fashion did so as a means to demonstrate their anti-establishment attitudes and to reject the status quo. Punk wardrobes consisted of leather garments, tartan prints, ripped jeans, Doc Martens, safety pins, metal chains and intentionally made holes and tatters.